M&s Driveshafts – Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series Front 1310 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK) Item J125426
By entering your email, you agree to receive automatic recurring marketing emails from the email address you provided.
M&s Driveshafts
Review and Installation – Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Series Front 1310 CV Driveshaft with Solid U-Joints Video
Drive Shaft Ms 0678730 Ms 0678730, Ms0678730 Compatible With Moulinex
Ryan: The Adams Driveshaft Extreme Duty Front 1310 Solid CV Driveshaft with Flange is for you with a 2017 to 2018 JK looking to replace your front driveshaft because you need a longer or stronger driveshaft or your factory wear out. As you know, it is not a complete service for you. So, replacing it with a similar one will enable you to service it in future. This will be a very easy three wrench installation, especially since Adams includes the flange you need on the transfer side of the driveshaft, you have everything you need to install this. Installation is very easy and we’ll talk you through it in just seconds, so, as I said, your JK’s front factory driveshaft will not serve. So, even if you didn’t install the exhaust and you melted the shoes and caused problems or the U joint itself started to weaken or whatever, if you need to replace it, it will. A very good choice for you. This is very strong, very fleshy, it will be long, it will help lift up to six inches. It will also be a CV or constant speed driveshaft, it will be at this point, we have the center ball, and you have two different U joints here. On this side you will also have your U-joints. All of these U joints are of the non-serviceable type, so they are not greaseable, which is actually a good thing if you are looking for strength because U joints are not drilled through the center. grease passage so that these U joints are actually quite strong. So, the U-joint itself is not serviceable, however, the driveshaft is serviceable as you have your usual clips that will allow you to remove the U-joints and pop up new ones should you need to. . That’s the part your factory driveshaft won’t allow you to do. If you want to remove the factory U-joint and service the factory driveshaft, you will actually have to drill out or cut the clips that hold the driveshaft in place because they are not designed to be remote. So, this will provide you. Tons of power, a little extra length, will allow you to replace the U joint if you want. You don’t need this because these are designed to last a really, really long time, they’re sealed, they can’t leak. However, the center wall itself is greaseable, which is a good thing. Then you have another zerk right here and that will allow you to put some oil in the driveshaft so that it opens and closes or goes longer and shorter than the suspension travel, you can put this oil here. So, a lot of strength here, a really high quality piece. If you are looking for a new front driveshaft for your JK this is a genuine driveshaft and very strong, at a reasonable price. As for the price, this is around $500, which I think is a pretty good deal for the quality you’re getting. So, I mentioned earlier that it is an easy installation for you, now I will show you how to do it. Man: The tools needed for this installation are half-inch, 3/8 and quarter-inch drives, various extensions. This is an 8 millimeter socket, actually a 12.5/16, a 15 and an inch socket and a 5/16, followed by a flathead screwdriver, a pry bar and a soft rubber mallet. The alternative is to push this air and impact. I highly recommend using this Loctite. To remove our front driveshaft for our Jeep JK, to start, I have an 8 millimeter socket on the end of my quarter inch drive and I will remove all the bolts holding our driveshaft to our own transfer case. So, let’s start removing these bolts. All rights reserved by us. So, I have my air ratchet, my quarter inch air ratchet, I’m just going to start moving all these bolts. And you can see there’s a little horseshoe that’s holding them both together. All rights reserved by us. Now, we’re going to remove the four 15 millimeter bolts that hold the front of the driveshaft to our differential. Now, I can grab the wheel here, spin it, and it will move my page. You will notice that it has a small thread. We’ll be using this hardware again, so keep this handy. OK. So, with all of our doors removed from the front and rear flanges of our driveshaft, you can see that the only thing holding our driveshaft to the output shaft of our transfer case is some tension and tight clearance. I’m going to take a soft rubber mallet and hit this part of the driveshaft in hopes that I’ll get some clearance and then I can get a pry bar and separate it the rest of the way. Let’s go ahead and hit it. let’s go Open it up a little here, squeeze my pre bar there. All rights reserved by us. let’s go You can see that it is free. And now we will move forward on this front. All rights reserved by us. So, to get this shaft out the rest of the way, I’m going to put my hand on the shaft that we just removed and then I’m going to use a pry bar and just make this shaft look like this. It loosens, compresses the shaft a bit, and off we go. Slide in and come out. And keep your old stock driveshaft. OK. Now, we’re going to take a 5/16 inch socket here and we’re going to put this flanged nut on the output tube of our transfer case. Make sure you also hold this nut. We are going to use it again. That’s right, we have to remove this flange from our transfer case and what I have here again is my soft rubber mallet. I’m just going to hit each corner and try to open up a little point for my flathead screwdriver god so I can get right between the flange and the transfer case. And then we can open it up further. All rights reserved by us. So, now we are going to give this pair a huge blow. And you can see that if you hit it in the right place it will come out immediately. And then, inside this is a big o-ring, we’ll keep that as well. Right. So, what we’re going to do now is put our new flange up. Put our o-ring first. Make sure it’s nice and sit in it. So, this is how you want your O-ring to sit on your new flange. And we’re just going to make sure our splines slide right in and follow with our factory inch and 5/16 nuts. I’m just going to start a few of these threads here and then finish with that socket. Make sure my socket can still go in there and it does. And you make sure it’s nice and tight. All rights reserved by us. And it will. So, before we start bolting our new Adams Driveshaft driveshaft into our Jeep, I want to talk a little bit about thread locker. Adams driveshafts now include this small set of red thread lockers. Now, I’m not going to include it because we’re going to remove this driveshaft and return it to stock, but I suggest you use this or thread locker or Loctite that you use. House because this part is moving, rotating, vibrating. So, let’s get into the driveshaft. Right. So, with our flange installed, we are now going to bring in our new driveshaft. I will first connect the output shaft of our transfer case. I will make sure this U-joint fits in the new flange. How is that? Now, I will start our new hardware. Turn a little this time so I can enter the other side. Then I do another 180 spin and start on the other side. All rights reserved by us. You will notice that this has a title
Performance driveshafts, dorman driveshafts, aluminum driveshafts, remanufactured driveshafts, cheap driveshafts, driveline driveshafts, used driveshafts, qa1 driveshafts, custom driveshafts, racing driveshafts, strange driveshafts, driveshafts
