Custom Led Tail Lights For Motorcycles – Our new generation Orbit Mini Led tail lights are here. Improved from our first Orbit Light design, our new LED taillights are now ready to ship.
It’s clear that a product designed by a motorcycle builder is immersed in motorcycles every day. Seeing the pain of motorcycle lights that are often bulky, ugly and poorly functioning, PBM decided to do something about it. The Mini Orbit Motorcycle Tailpiece showcases classic styling and completely rethinks functionality. Only the targeted Moto is designed from the ground up with an LED cluster. Installation requires very little labor or skill, it’s a straight 3 wire swap. The smallest brake lights can look amazing, and there is a beautiful Halo running light with a bright LED cluster for braking. The Orbital Mini Brake Light combines everything you could want in a small, versatile package that will make you wonder whether you should tell everyone you know or keep this amazing secret to yourself. yourself
Custom Led Tail Lights For Motorcycles
** Note: Some chemicals or abrasion can damage color anodizing and it can fade if exposed to the sun for long periods of time. Protect your bike whenever possible.
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It’s hard to find a great light that ticks all the boxes, is highly visible, compact and stylish. The dedicated Moto motorcycle has a reputation for solving these light problems. Now this is our best version of how a backlight should look. Versatile, extremely bright and eye-catching design is based on our vision. A simple upgrade to easily replace the factory tail lights and give your bike great results.
Compared to other normal tail lights on the market, it’s easy to see, the Light Built Moto Orbit Tail Light beats the best. Mounted on a sissy bar, your favorite custom tail, or tucked neatly into your tail, if you’re in the market for a tail light, you can’t go past it! LED tail light for your motorcycle or other vehicle, then you should read this guide. Why? If you’re trying to figure out how to do this, LEDs are very bright, turn on and off faster than incandescents, and are generally great.
There are a few things to consider before starting this project. You have to ask yourself, are you up for the challenge? If you have a lot of experience in electronics/electronics/circuit design, this project can be very simple; but if you’re anything like me, i didn’t realize how much work i’d be doing. Is there another way to achieve the same results? In retrospect, I wish I could have spent the same amount of money to buy a car LED tail light on Ebay and then fit it into a motorcycle tail light spot.
There are some decent resources out there, and I’m certainly not the first person to attempt such a build, but the reason I’m writing this tutorial is to collect a few things I’ve learned and maybe help make the process easier. to anyone else trying to achieve the same.
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Project Cost = About $50. A lot of this depends on whether you have electronics/soldering supplies on hand, want to order parts online, or have more money to spare to shop at RadioShack.
You can pick and choose what kind of LEDs you want. I got mine on ebay because they were in my price range and I didn’t need to buy too much. After much research I decided the best solution was to get 4 post LEDs. These are the same people used in car applications. I believe it is made by genuine Philips / Lumileds. You are looking for the term Superflux LEDs. The ones I got were kind of knock-offs, but they have an amazing viewing angle that works well for backlighting. No matter where you get your LEDs, make sure you get all the specifications for them. This is the most important part because you will be designing your array and circuits based on their specifications.
Before I go any further I must digress. The more you learn about LEDs, the more people understand how to operate them. LEDs are very sensitive to current and the voltage is irrelevant, they will burn out when exposed to a forward voltage drop. I really wanted to go with adjustable current in this project, but everything I did was either too expensive or beyond my capabilities. I was able to get free samples for some really cool regulator chips from a company called maxim, but they are all surface chips and beyond my capabilities. If you think surface chips are really cool, you should check out this booklet.
I had the company send me a ton of free samples for many of the chips out there. (Don’t abuse) I also considered using a product called schmartboard which claims to make surface mount soldering possible. I didn’t want to invest in something that didn’t work, so I’m not sure if this option is good or bad.
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In the end, I decided to go the cheap route and use LM317t voltage regulators that I found at Radio Shack. Here you need to remember how to operate the LED.
What voltage do you want your array to operate at? Use this, http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz it will help you visualize too, if you are like me and like electronics, series/parallel circuits etc.
The LM317 drops about 2V, so you need to keep that in mind and make sure the total voltage is high enough. This is my example. I got the following values with the output voltage for the motorcycle tail light. When the motor is off all lines, tail and brake, the output is about 10V when running, down to 13V. 10V left 2V (LM317) 8V to power my LED. The specifications on the LEDs were 1.9 2.3 maximum forward voltage. I decided that putting 4 series was cutting it too close, so I chose 3 series so that my array would run at 6V. This gives enough juice to run everything, and it’s easy to put the LM317 on a 6V output.
Now that you have a plan for how to run your LEDs, you can wire them up. I had this bright idea that I wanted a cool pattern. I have 48 LEDs in my array. This equates to 16 series of 3 LEDs all working side by side. Again use http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz as it is easy to understand. I wanted a cool pattern so my wires were pretty strong. Most of the time I had a little solder bridging between the posts of my 3 groups, then I put a jumper wire to use only one solder bridge for the LEDs which are wired in series but too far apart. It was quite simple, but when I had to process 16 + different lines and 16 dashes, things got a lot more confusing.
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It would be much easier to stack these things to use less wires and bridges across the anodes and cathodes of the LEDs. If you have a short somewhere, troubleshooting is much easier. If you decide to be a dreamer, be creative and try to avoid headaches.
Once everything is installed, 90% of your work will be done. You can test your array using batteries, but make sure you run them without connecting them directly to 12V and turning them on, that will be bad. The next step is to integrate your voltage regulator with the LM317.
This site has some information on how to wire them, including a diagram. http://www.reuk.co.uk/LM317-Voltage-Calculator.htm There are other calculators that calculate values based on Resistor1 and Resistor2 values. In short, you follow the wiring diagram on that page or on the back of your Radio Shack package if you bought it there. You need 2 different resistors to set the output current to whatever you want. Obviously, your output will be 2V lower than your input
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